Vardzia
Cave monastery of Queen Tamar
Why this destination matters
Vardzia is a vast cave monastery carved into the Erusheti Mountain under King Giorgi III and his daughter Queen Tamar in the 12th century. At its peak the complex extended 500 metres along the cliff, with 19 tiers and 13 levels, around 6,000 rooms and the capacity to shelter up to 20,000 people - a Christian counterpart to the Cappadocian underground cities.
An earthquake in 1283 destroyed two-thirds of the complex and exposed many of the previously hidden internal caves. The Church of the Dormition (1180s) preserves significant 12th-century frescoes including one of only four surviving contemporary portraits of Queen Tamar. The complex was abandoned after the 16th-century Ottoman conquest and reactivated as a monastery in 1988. UNESCO Tentative List since 1999.
240 km from Tbilisi via Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe (4 hours each way). Most visitors include a stop at the Borjomi mineral-water park and the Khertvisi fortress along the way.
Key sites to visit
Church of the Dormition
1180s. 12th-century frescoes including a contemporary portrait of Queen Tamar.
Refectory, bakery, wine cellars
Working monastic infrastructure carved into the cliff.
Living quarters
Hundreds of monk cells and corridors on multiple levels.
Defensive system
Sealed internal staircases and water cisterns for siege resistance.
Best time to visit
April-October (the monastery is closed Mondays). Spring and autumn are most pleasant.
How to get there
240 km from Tbilisi (4 hours) via Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe. Marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe; most pilgrims hire a private driver from Tbilisi for the full day.
Where to stay
Most visitors stay overnight in Akhaltsikhe (60 km north) at the Lomsia Hotel or in Borjomi. Vardzia Resort hotel is a few km from the site.
Tours and experiences
Full-day or two-day Tbilisi private driver tours combine Vardzia, Borjomi, Akhaltsikhe Rabati Castle and Khertvisi fortress.
Practical information
- Hours
- Daily 10:00-19:00 April-October. Closed Mondays. Closed mid-November to mid-March.
- Fees
- 15 GEL (~5 EUR).
- Dress code
- Modest dress; women cover heads in the Church of the Dormition.
- Accessibility
- Very limited - the visit involves steep stone steps and narrow rock-cut passages.
- Notes
- Photography forbidden inside the Church of the Dormition.
Pilgrim tips
đĄ Practical advice for pilgrims
- Vardzia is in southern Georgia (3-4 hours' drive from Tbilisi, 1 hour from Akhaltsikhe). Most pilgrim groups stay overnight in Akhaltsikhe or Borjomi to break the journey. The 12-13th century cave monastery is well worth the detour.
- The full Vardzia complex has 13 levels carved into the cliff face â over 400 rock-cut chambers including a main church (the Dormition Church with 12th-century frescoes), bell tower, refectory, and irrigation system. Allow 3-4 hours for a serious visit.
- Queen Tamar (1184-1213, Georgia's most celebrated medieval ruler) is the patroness of Vardzia. The principal Dormition Church frescoes include her portrait (commissioned during her lifetime) â one of the most important surviving Georgian royal images.
- The narrow cliff-face stairs are physically demanding. Pilgrims with mobility issues should focus on the main church (accessible by relatively gentle paths from the entrance plaza) and skip the upper levels.
- Combine Vardzia with the Borjomi mineral springs (1 hour drive, Georgian wellness town) and the Khertvisi medieval fortress (15 minutes from Vardzia) for a full southern Georgia day.
- The Vardzia approach road is narrow and steep â drive carefully or hire a local Georgian driver. Mobile signal is intermittent; download offline maps before departure from Akhaltsikhe.
Did you know?
âšī¸ Fascinating facts
- Vardzia was commissioned by King George III in 1156 AD and completed by his daughter Queen Tamar (r. 1184-1213). The name 'Vardzia' is from the Georgian phrase 'aq var dzia' ('here I am, uncle') â the child Tamar's reported response to her uncle who lost her in the rock-cut passages.
- The 1283 Akhaltsikhe earthquake collapsed approximately two-thirds of Vardzia's cliff face â the original 19 levels were reduced to 13, exposing the inner caves to the open air. The current visible facade is the post-earthquake remainder; the pre-1283 monastery was completely enclosed.
- Vardzia was an active functioning monastery from foundation in 1156 until 1551, when the Persian shah Tahmasp I sacked and depopulated the complex. The site was abandoned for nearly 400 years; a small monastic community returned in 1989.
- The Dormition Church frescoes (1184-1186) are among the masterpieces of medieval Georgian art. The royal donor portraits (King George III and Queen Tamar) are one of the few surviving lifetime royal portraits of the medieval Caucasus.
Suggested reading before you go
| Title / Reference | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Queen Tamar: Medieval Georgia's Golden Age (translated Georgian chronicle) | The medieval Georgian account of Queen Tamar's reign. Available in English translation in the 'Caucasian Chronicles' series. Foundational for understanding Vardzia. |
| Georgia: In the Mountains of Poetry (Peter Nasmyth) | Cultural travel book. Strong chapter on southern Georgia (Vardzia, Borjomi, Akhaltsikhe) and the medieval Christian heritage. |
| Medieval Georgian Frescoes (Antony Eastmond) | Academic study of medieval Georgian church painting. Vardzia's Dormition Church frescoes are the central case study. |
Featured on these routes
- Caucasus Christian Heritage â Armenia and Georgia - the first and second Christian nations
Frequently asked questions
Names in other languages
| Georgian | Vardzia |
|---|---|
| Russian | Vardzia |
| Greek | Vartzia |
| German | Wardsia |
| French | Vardzia |